Sassicaia 2017

Der Auftakt des Jahrgangs 2017 war in der Toskana zunächst wenig erfreulich: Frost im Frühjahr hinderte viele Reben am Austrieb, hier mussten bereits zu Beginn einige Verluste hingenommen werden. Der Sommer zeichnete sich durch extreme Hitzewellen aus, auch hier mussten die Winzer einige Verluste hinnehmen. Im Herbst gab es dann wieder normale Temperaturen mit kühlen Nächten, die verbliebenen Trauben brachten es zu guter Reife und ergaben intensive, voluminöse Weine.

Im Glas zeigt der Sassicaia im Jahrgang 2017 eine tief rubinrote Farbe, präsentiert darüber ein Bukett nach eingelegter Weichselkirsche, Noten von Sandelholz, Rosmarin und Tabak. Am Gaumen kraftvoll, von seidiger Textur und kernigen Tannin. Erneut viel Kirschfrucht im Spiel mit Noten von Kurkuma und Mokka, abgerundet durch einen langen, harmonischen Abgang.

Leuchtendes, sattes Rubinrot. Intensive und klar gezeichnete Nase, duftet nach Brombeeren und Cassis, etwas Kardamom. Zeigt am Gaumen sehr tollen Zug, viel saftige Frucht, Tannin öffnet sich in vielen Schichten, im Finale feine Kräuterwürze, salzig. Falstaff

The 2017 Sassicaia is dark, sensual and rich, which is a good thing, as the tannins - the result of a warm, dry year in which phenolic ripening was difficult to fully reach - are also quite powerful. I tasted the 2017 from an approximate blend from barrel, where the wines are still aging in separate lots. It will be interesting to see where things end up once the wine is in bottle. Antonio Galloni

Aromas of exotic spice, baked plum and French oak mingle with camphor and blue flower on the nose. This boasts extraordi-nary elegance and freshness despite the hot vin-tage, delivering flavors of juicy Marasca cherry, spiced blueberry, tobacco and licorice. Velvety, fine-grained tannins provide support while coffee and crushed mint linger on the finish. Wine Enthusiast

The 2017 Sassicaia is a fascinating wine that symbolizes a never-ending tug-of-war between vintner and vintage. The question is who comes out on top? In this case, my money is on the vintner. The 2017 vintage, characterized by scorching heat and drought across much of Italy, was not an easy one. However, vintners had ample time to prepare because those climatic challenges had already played out midway through the summer season. Vintners with experience such as that amassed at Tenuta San Guido (now on the eve of Sassicaia's 50th birthday celebration) knew exactly how to handle the tricky 2017 growing season. Fruit was harvested early to avoid any jammy sensations, and a strict selection process was employed in order to preserve the best clusters. This Sassicaia represents 83% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Cabernet Franc, with most of the fruit coming from the Tenuta's historic vineyards Castiglioncello, Quercione and Doccino. These plots are all located on the back hill of Bolgheri at slightly higher elevations where they enjoy cooler nighttime temperatures. Old vines also have a deeper root system that is key to braving dry and hot summers. You can absolutely taste those choices here thanks to the wine's aromatic profile that offers more variety-driven green highlights of wild berry, forest floor and bramble than I would have expected. Wine Advocat

Another surprise, especially for those who do not know the Bolgheri wine well. This because 2011 was a majestic Sassicaia vintage, truly comparable with 1988. It has all the best this wine can express starting with its bright and intense ruby color. The aromas are wrapping, elegant and classic with fruity and balsamic notes performing a duet in a delicious organoleptic counterpoint that in a way recalls certain Vivaldi compositions. The full flavor has extraordinary class with subtle and velvety tannins. The finish is extremely long. Doctor Wine